Tiruvannamalai, 85 km from Vellore in northern Tamil Nadu seems a quiet, non-descript town like many another and yet it is a hidden gem. For worshippers of Shiva or Shaivites, it is of immense importance as Shiva is revered here as Arunachaleswar, an aspect of fire.
Mount Arunachal, an 800 meter high boulder strewn hill looms tall above the town keeping a watchful eye over its residents. Each full moon this hill has thousands of devotees circumnavigating its base, about 14 km in all. A common sight in the town is Shaivite priests, sadhus and devotees all flocking to Shiva's temple - the Arunachaleswar temple.
The Arunachaleswar temple is huge and one of the largest and certainly one of the most captivating, in the country. The temple goes back to the 11th century but most of the existing structure dates back to the 17th and 19th centuries. At each of the four cardinal points is a huge unpainted tower or gopuram, four in all.
The eastern gopuram, the main entrance and through which you enter, is quite special. It is 66 meters tall and rises to 13 stories. You walk down a covered walkway to the main entrance. On each side is a bazaar with vendors selling trinkets, flowers and prasadam (offerings). It is quite a unique ambiance.
As you enter the precincts of the temple you see a 1000 pillared gallery/hall or mandapam on the right and a large water tank on the left. Follow the devotees through the main courtyard to the main shrine with a Shiva lingam (Shiva's phallic symbol). Here in the sanctum sanctorum puja is held in the morning and evening.
Legend has it that Shiva appeared as a column of fire on Mount Arunachaleswar, creating the original symbol of the lingam, by which he is known to this day. Each November/December full moon, the Karthikai Deepam Festival, one of India's oldest festival, celebrates this legend throughout the country, though the festival has particular significance in Tiruvannamalai.
Here a huge fire, lit from a 30-meter wick dipped in 2000 liters of ghee (clarified butter) blazes from the top of Mount Arunachal for days. Every home, no matter how humble, lights lamps in honour of Shiva. The fire symbolizes Shiva's light, which dispels evil and darkness.
During the time of the festival over half a million people converge on the town and circumnavigate the base of Mount Arunachal, known locally as Girivalam, and climb up barefoot, to pay obeisance to Shiva. If you think it is too much for you to circumnavigate the Mount on foot then take an autorickshaw and stop at small shrines and temples along the way.
To get a great view of the temple climb up at least part of the Mount. Follow the path that leads up past village homes near the northwest corner of the temple passing 2 caves, Virupaksha and Skandasraman. Sri Ramana Maharishi (a great sage) lived and meditated in these caves for over 20 years(1899 to 1922) after which he established the Sri Ramana Ashram, a little outside Tiruvannamalai. Ramana Maharishi died in 1950 after spending 50 years in contemplation. The Ashram is a peaceful place to meditate or even visit.
Many visitors like to take a side trip to the twin ruined 16th century forts of Rajagiri and Krishnagiri - which crown the hilltops near gingee (shin-gee) about 35 km out of Tiruvannamalai. Built by the kings of the mighty Vijayanagar Empire these forts lie deserted except for the visit of the occasional tourist and the local cowherds.
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